Saturday, January 17, 2009

Back in Jerusalem

For over 21 days Israel has been bombarding Gaza in ‘response’ to the rockets Hamas fires into its south. I have been in Europe, travelling and scrounging around for whatever English newspapers I could find. There have been so many deaths, so many deaths at such a disproportionate rate. The people of Gaza are dying and any security they had has been shattered.

I didn’t want to come back to this country. According to reports, most Israelis have supported their government’s actions. I’ve read the explanations and the comparisons (‘if you are in Britain and the southern regions are being showered by rockets daily, wouldn’t you defend yourself?’ etc...), but how can rational people think that this justifies what is happening? How can rational people think that a justification even exists?

I hated the idea of studying at an Israeli university as Israeli bombs rained down on Gaza. I didn’t want to live among Israelis while my Palestinian friends mourned for loved ones and lamented the carnage of the other part of their land.

Many people I met and spoke with in Europe advised against returning, and this added to my indecision. But in the end I realised it would be hypocritical to not return. How can I let myself go home without meeting and speaking with Israelis? I have always believed in dialogue, speaking with both sides – I can’t dispense with that now when it’s actually being tested.

This is my reasoning and why I have chosen to return and experience Israel, despite its horrible timing. It is difficult. I receive invitations to join ‘Boycott Israel’ groups on Facebook, and yet here I am moving into Israel and even attending one of its institutions, if only for a little while.

But for today, I am in the Old City in the Muslim Quarter. The noises outside are ‘business as usual’. I can hear shop keepers, young men and children roaming and playing on the streets, and there is even music playing an Arabic rhythm somewhere. Earlier the call to prayer rang out through the streets. There is a Mosque just outside my window and I can see its minaret against the clouded sky when I turn to the left. It is beautiful.

But there are signs that things are different from when I was here last in early December. There is more security on the streets – Israeli security vehicles are on almost every corner, their lights flashing blue. There are still tourists though, walking among the streets. I had thought that the violence in Gaza may have deterred them, but the Holy City still draws its pilgrims.

Tomorrow I will go to the university where I will be studying and it all starts from there. This is the last part of my journey, though I think it will be the hardest.

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